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Where it's at
Gunung Kinabalu is South East Asia's highest mountain at 13000
ft and forms the centrepiece of the Kinabalu Park,
located 60 miles from Sabah's capital - Kota Kinabalu.
Buses can be caught from Kota Kinabalu to the Park's main
entrance.
Gunung Kinabalu's saw-toothed profile dominates the
landscape of northern Borneo. The summit, Low's Peak,
is named after the British explorer Hugh Low who made the
first - unsuccessful - attempt to reach the summit in 1851,
and then tried again later in 1858. Local Kadazan and Dusun
peoples believe that Gunung Kinabalu is the home of their
dead ancestors, naming it Aki Nabalu - "Revered
Place of the Dead". Animal sacrifices are regularly placed
at the summit to appease the restless spirits. From the far
side of the summit a vertical 5500ft drop ends in the abyss
known as Low's Gully, infamous the world over as one
of the most inhospitable places on earth.
In spite of Gunung Kinabalu's fearsome reputation, it is
not a technically difficult climb and can be attempted by
climbers of all fitness levels and experience. A path has
been cleared through the dense jungle leading to the granite
rock faces thousands of metres above where ropes have been
put in place to make the final climb accessible to all.
The lower slopes of the mountain are carpeted with some of
the world's most diverse flora and fauna including the rafflesia
- the world's largest flower (which can reach over 3ft in
diameter), over 1000 species of orchids, orang-utans, gibbons,
anteaters, and hundreds of species of birds. The slopes
are also home to nine species of pitcher plant. One
of the largest specimens has been found containing seven pints
of water - and a drowned rat!
The route
Most people stay in the Kinabalu Park the night before
the climb, which you should begin at 7:00am. You will need
to register at the park HQ, obtain a climbing permit and hire
a guide before setting-off. These guides have lifetimes of
experience climbing the mountain and can provide a mine of
information on the way up. When there is no work available
taking tourists to the summit, the locals work as porters
carrying astonishing loads up the mountain to the higher altitude
huts - don't be surprised to see them racing past with tables,
crates of soft drinks and food strapped to their backs as
you struggle for breath.
The trail proper begins at the Timpohon Gate, a few
miles from the HQ, and begins deceptively as you stroll down
hill through lush tropical rainforest and a beautiful waterfall
before heading steadily upwards. Rest stops are dotted along
the entirety of the path, often with stunning views back down
the mountain. After about 3800ft, the vegetation begins to
change to more temperate forests of oaks, chestnuts, and ferns,
and as you climb higher and higher the trees begin to thin,
until at 8000ft they are no more than gnarled and twisted
stumps. The root-covered steps are hard work but the views
behind you are stunning.
At 10,000ft, the tree line disappears as you emerge from
the forest and get your first glimpse of the massive granite
rock faces ahead of you. Most people stop here for the night,
at the Laban Rata rest house or the more basic huts
at Gunting Lagadan and Panar Laban. You should
be able to get to this point by mid-afternoon.
Many climbers suffer from altitude sickness at this height,
characterised by headaches and nausea, and stop to acclimatise
- and get some sleep before the 2am start the following day.
An early departure from Laban Rata is essential to catch the
awesome sunrise from the summit, but the climb can be difficult
in the dark. Everyone assembles in the blackness before setting
off for the summit between 2-3am. A torch is handy, as are
warm clothes and gloves - the summit can be cold, especially
after the climb when you start to cool off.
Parts of this section are hard work, involving hauling yourself
up near-vertical rock faces with ropes. Huge granite sheets
fan out across the mountain before you reach the summit and
can only be fully appreciated on the way down when you can
actually see them in the light of day. Reaching the horn-shaped
summit, the climbers huddle together for warmth and watch
the sun rise over Borneo thousands of metres below. On a clear
day you can see the coast and the islands of Tunku Abdul
Rahman Park from Low's Peak.
travellers tips
- If you are travelling alone, team-up with some others to
make hiring the guide cheaper.
- Take a torch - the second part of the climb is in the middle
of the night.
- Coming down can cause severe muscle strains and fatigue
- take your time on the way up and on the way down.
- Take plenty of food - especially high-energy munchies like
chocolate.
- Make use of the Laban Rata rest house, which has hot water,
hot food and beds and a great spot to watch the sunset before
getting some rest. |
