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This story is taken from the book Great
Festivals of the World
Where's the Party?
The Piazza del Campo in the medieval Tuscan town of
Siena, Italy, is transformed into a makeshift racetrack
for the Palio, which takes place twice a year.
Dates for the Diary
The Palio happens on 2nd July and 16th August. If you arrive
four days beforehand, however, you can witness the build up
to the event and watch the heats, where the ten horses that
will take part in the main race are selected from amongst
almost 50 thoroughbreds.
What's It All About?
There are two practice races during the day of the festival,
as well as the main race which happens in the early evening.
Ten out of Siena's seventeen contrades (or 'neighbourhoods')
are in competition for the much coveted palio, the silken
banner which gives the event its name. It's no easy ride,
either, as the swift, beautiful steeds hurtle through the
narrow streets, running into walls and crashing into corners.
The first horse past the post is deemed the winner ‹
even if their rider has taken a tumble along the way.
The Palio, which started in 1597, is officially a religious
celebration. On July 2 the occasion is dedicated to the Madonna
di Provenza, and on August 16 to Our Lady of the Assumption.
The traditions of the Palio have remained largely unchanged
since the Middle Ages, and each contrada has a museum where
memorabilia documenting their success in the Palio is on public
view.
In the lead up to the Palio there are a series of practise
races, where the jockeys get used to the horses before the
big day. This also allows the contrade to assess the chances
of succes for their horse, and so to work out whether they
are going to try to actually win the race, or throw their
weight behind impeding a contrade that they are enemies with
or helping one that they like. On at least on occasion, a
jockey has been paid a cash bonus for every time he hit an
enemy contrade with his whip during the race. The practise
races are less crowded, but they lack the passion and pageantry
of the big occasion.
On the day of the Palio, the streets of Siena are filled
with lively crowds and religious processions throughout the
day of the Palio, and the festivities continue late into the
night in bars all over town.
Be Prepared
European Union nations do not require a visa to enter Italy,
as long as they are staying for less than 90 days. Nationals
from other countries may need a visa, as will all visitors
who are intending to stay for more than 90 days. If in any
doubt, contact the Italian Embassy or Consulate in your home
country before you leave.
Hotels are usually booked out during the Palio, so it's advisable
to make a reservation.
You don't need a ticket to watch the Palio if you're prepared
to stand with the crowds on the infield. Alternatively, cafes
around the Campo set up seating areas outside, from where
you can see the action for a fee. If you prefer this option,
organise your ticket in advance. The local tourist office
(see below) can provide a list of operators, prices and contact
details. A seat for one of the practice races will work out
much cheaper although the atmosphere won't be the same.
Getting There
The nearest international airport to Siena is at Florence,
30 miles away. From there, you can take a bus or a train.
Where to Stay
There is a good range of hotels to suit all budgets in Siena.
Contact the Hotel Reservation Office (below) for information
and bookings.
Other Expenses
Naturally, everything is more expensive during the Palio.
With a decent hotel, two restaurant meals and a few overpriced
gelatos you can get by on around US$150-200 per person per
day.
A cheaper option is to stay at a hotel or pension in nearby
Florence and commute to Siena for the race. However, the last
train leaves quite early and you will miss all of the events
and feasting which happens in the evenings. Busses run later
but double-check departure times and do not assume that they
will stick to the timetable. It is a good idea not to rely
on the last bus in the evening.
Once You're There
Aim to get to the Campo at least four hours before the main
event to secure a prime viewing spot near one of the sharp
corners (but not right on the corner, as horses have an unnerving
habit of crashing into them at high speed). Keep your camera
at the ready to take pictures of religious pageants and street
parades as they pass.
If you are watching from inside the campo, be prepared to
get there early to stake a spot near to the barrier. Places
by the start/finish line are especially sought after. If you
can¹t get a position near the barrier, then stand at
the higher side of the square so you will get a better view.
A word of warning
It is advisable to carry a bottle of water with you, as drinks
can be hard to come by in the Campo and once the processions
have started you will not be able to leave.
Local Attractions
You can easily spend a day or two just wandering the streets
of Siena and taking in the fine architecture, numerous churches
and museums. If you want to venture out of town, you can explore
the pleasant countryside surrounding Siena. Known as Il Chianti,
this is the region where some of the best wines in all of
Italy are produced. Alternatively, the medieval towns of San
Gimignano and Volterra are a short bus ride away.
Similar Events
Although the Palio of Ferrera, a medieval town situated
between Florence and Venice, is claimed to be the oldest such
event in the world, it's neither as famous or as big as it's
Siena counterpart.
The S'Ardia horserace in Sedilo, a mountain village
in the north of Sardinia, is part of a two day festival in
honour of the town's patron, Saint Constantine. The race originated
during the Moorish invasions, when young men trained their
horse to gallop at high speed through the town's narrow streets
so that they¹d be able to outrun the enemy.
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