|
Carpet weaving has been common practice in Turkey since time
immemorial, and the oldest examples date as far back as the
4th century BC. For the nomads of Central Asia, carpets were
portable, practical, beautiful furniture upon which the household
would perform a range of social and ceremonial functions,
such as receiving guests, praying and marriage.
Since Turkish rugs became all the rage in Europe in the 19th
century, travellers to Turkey habitually hunt out the best
bargains at the markets and bazaars in all the major cities.
There’s a fantastic array of different patterns and techniques
on offer: as well as traditional pile carpets, you can find
flat-woven kilims, colourful Sumaks, intricate Cicims –
all painstakingly woven according to traditional methods handed
down through the generations.
Master Craftsmen
Rugs were traditionally made by women, who weaved a piece
of their own personality into the pattern. They were intended
for use by the family or as a dowry and as a woman knew she
would be judged by her handiwork, a great deal of care went
into the process.
These days, carpet making is a much more a commercial enterprise.
Although local women still manufacture the carpets, the style
and pattern are usually dictated by the customer’s preferences
rather than the whim of the artisan.
Where to Bag a Bargain
Wherever you go in Turkey, you’ll be dazzled by the astounding
displays of beautiful carpets for sale. But before you buy,
beware: the market is extremely competitive and there are
some unscrupulous rug dealers about. You’ll undoubtedly
encounter some hard-sell tactics, but if you shop about you’re
much more likely to pick up a bargain.
The carpet sellers in Istanbul’s Covered Market
are the most knowledgeable about their trade. They’ve
been in the business the longest and are less pushy than traders
in other parts of the city. At the state run carpet shop in
the Hasek Hurrem Hamami district the prices are fixed but
quality is assured. Even if you’d rather haggle, it’s
worth a visit to get an idea of how much you should be prepared
to pay.
If you’re heading to Cappadocia, it may be a good idea
to buy your carpet here. You’ll get a lot less hassle
here than in the capital, and there’s still an enormous
range to choose from.
How to Spot a Good Buy
If you’ve never bought a rug before, take time to mug
up on a few basic rules to avoid getting taken for a ride:
Top quality rugs are 100% wool, or a blend of wool and silk.
Your rug will last longer if there’s still natural oil
in the wool. Cheaper carpets may be made of cotton, and you
can check by examining the fringes on the edge of the carpet.
You can tell a new rug by it’s tight knots. Old or poor
quality examples have a baggier weave, and cheap mass-produced
rugs are less finely finished. Incredibly, experts are able
to tell from the height and depth of the knot, the type of
wool and the weave pattern, precisely which village or tribe
a rug originated from.
Compare the colours on the top and reverse of the rug. Richer
colours on the underside may indicate that it has faded with
age. Moreover, chemical dyes fade more readily than natural
dyes, and although there’s nothing really wrong with
chemical colours, natural pigments command a higher price.
What's it Worth?
Depending on your budget, you could spend anything from $40
to $4000 on a rug. Remember, though, that haggling is the
norm in Turkey, and it’s usual to bargain a bit before
settling on a mutually acceptable price. Stall owners will
often ply you with mint tea and hospitality to have you spend
longer inspecting their wares. Be aware, though, that if you
employ the services of a guide to assist you in your purchase
it’s likely that their commission will be included in
the price you pay. |
