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Darwin
Darwin's distance from the buzzing East Coast cities, plus
the sparse population of the Northern Territory, of which
it is the capital, create an expectation of a cultural backwater;
an isolated outpost with no real appeal other than its proximity
to the natural attractions of Northern Australia. In fact,
Darwin is a lively, cosmopolitan town, with a young population
and a laid-back feel. Certainly, it lacks the wealth of heritage
architecture of the Australia's other major cities - WWII
bombing and the devastation of Cyclone Tracey in 1974 effectively
flattened Darwin, and the city now sports curiously new, squat,
cyclone-resistant structures - but it boasts a prime location
on a massive harbour, looking straight out onto the Timor
Sea. The exotic feel of the city is most obvious in its tropical
climate, but Darwin's closeness to Asia has also impacted
here in the existence of over 50 ethnic groups and the global
feast of food that is available.
Of course, Darwin's waterfront location means that a range
of aqua-based activities is on offer to provide relief from
the tropical heat. Diving around the wrecks of the harbour,
a legacy of the war, wearing special suits to protect against
fatal stingers, can be enjoyed by extremists, while others
may just be satisfied with superb harbourside dining. Aussies
don't often need much of an excuse to crack open a tinny (beer)
but Darwin's heat makes drinking practically a necessity.
August is a good time to be around, when thousands of 'empties'
are crafted into un-seaworthy rafts for the quirky Darwin
Beer Can Regatta. Darwin's exoticism finds its best expression
in the array of tastes to be sampled at the Mindil Beach
Sunset Market - local produce like seafood, emu and camel
is fused with fiery Asian flavours and spices to epitomise
Darwin's unique location between two worlds. There's nothing
quite like the sensation of sitting on the beach to eat, watching
the sun go down over the sea, knowing that the next stop across
the water is South East Asia.
Kakadu National Park
Kakadu National Park, east of Darwin in the Northern
Territory's Top End is an enormous slab of biodiversity comprising
rainforest, tidal wetlands, floodplains, mangroves, grasslands
and rivers, hosting an astounding range of flora and fauna.
A sandstone cliff line, known as the Arnhem Land escarpment,
threads its massive way through the park; sliced by gorges
and thundering waterfalls, its numerous caves and overhangs
are the site of thousands of examples of Aboriginal art, some
as ancient as 20,000 years old. World Heritage listed for
both its cultural and natural significance, Kakadu takes on
vastly different characteristics at different times of the
year. During the wet monsoon season, flora grows madly in
the humidity and the waterfalls are torrentially swollen.
However, it is at these times that much of the park is inaccessible
except by aerial viewing. The dry season makes access easier,
but also diminishes the falls and rivers, although plentiful
wildlife, including crocodiles, can be observed clustered
around the shrinking water sources.
Watarrka National Park
Watarrka National Park, about 200 miles south west of Alice
Springs, harbours a profusion of plant and animal life
that is surprising, given the harsh and unforgiving aspect
of the surrounding environment. The highlight of a visit to
the park is the spectacular Kings Canyon, a deep gorge
with sheer, high sandstone walls. A vertigo-inducing walk
around the rim of the Canyon offers plunging views to its
distant base, or a vast perspective of the surrounding desert,
while trekking down into its depths uncovers luxuriant palms
fringing a permanent water hole in a narrow gorge known as
the Garden of Eden. A revitalising swim in this oasis
should be followed by further exploration to the oddly beehive-shaped
rock formations called the Lost City.
The Olgas (Kata Tjuta)
The Olgas, now more properly known by the traditional name
of Kata Tjuta, are a cluster of 36 large, red, rounded
rocks some 18 miles from Uluru. Of spiritual significance
to the Aboriginal people, the name means "many heads"
and the narrow valleys and gorges between the monoliths provide
walking trails, including the evocatively named Valley
of the Winds. Lush vegetation nestles in the shaded areas
of the gorges, harbouring wildlife. Like Uluru, Kata Tjuta
provides a spectacular light show with the setting or rising
of the sun, transforming itself from russet, to purple, to
bright oranges and reds. Lookouts in the vicinity provide
prime viewing areas for this display of colour. To get the
most out of a visit to this supremely peaceful site, a visit
to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park Cultural Centre is
a must, increasing understanding of the sacred nature of the
site and ensuring that it resonates with a deeper significance
than just its astounding beauty.
Katherine Gorge
The Katherine Gorge is a chain of 13 majestic canyons, wound
through by the Katherine River. The dramatic formations
take on a different aspect according to the season - in the
Wet, powerful waterfalls crash down into the waterholes, which
during the drier months reflect the red rocks and blue sky
in their mirror-like stillness. The Gorge can be experienced
by way of a relaxing boat cruise through the main water passages,
or solo-man style in a kayak. On foot, a number of walking
trails in the region take in the remote and lovely surrounds,
ranging from those lasting less than hour to several days.
The rocky outcroppings also shelter numerous examples of Aboriginal
rock art, some dating back as much as 7000 years, offering
a fascinating glimpse into the local culture.
Alice Springs
Set against the rugged backdrop of the MacDonnell Ranges,
Alice Springs - or "the Alice", as it is known to
locals - is a rough and ready kind of place, peopled by fearsome
looking bikers, rugged outbackers, itinerants and a large
number of indigenous Australians. It's a good place to learn
about Aboriginal culture and purchase Aboriginal arts and
crafts directly from indigenous communities, as well as to
sample the delights of Australian bush tucker, which utilises
the roots and leaves of native plants. The town's isolation
may be a contributing factor to its eccentricity - some of
the festivals here have to be seen to be believed. Capping
everything is the boat regatta which sees participants making
bottomless boats out of empty beer cans (tradition dictates
that competitors must have drunk all the beer from the cans
themselves) and then stepping into the boat, picking it up
and running down a dried up river bed. Four-legged events
include the Camel Cup, which features camel races and
camelback polo, plus gambling galore. |
